palawan
Palawan (Tagalog pronunciation: [pɐ'lawan]) or officially Tagalog: Lalawigan ng Palawan, is an island province of the Philippines that is located in the MIMAROPA region or Region 4. Its capital is Puerto Princesa
City, and it is the largest province in the country in terms of total
area of jurisdiction. The islands of Palawan stretch from Mindoro in the northeast to Borneo in the southwest. It lies between the South China Sea and the Sulu Sea. The province is named after its largest island, Palawan Island (09°30′N 118°30′E), measuring 450 kilometres (280 mi) long, and 50 kilometres (31 mi) wide.
Geography
Palawan is composed of the long and narrow Palawan Island, plus a number of other smaller islands surrounding the main island. The Calamianes Group of Islands to the Northeast consists of Busuanga Island, Coron Island and Culion Island. Durangan Island almost touches the westernmost part of Palawan Island, while Balabac Island is located off the southern tip, separated from Borneo by the Balabac Strait. In addition, Palawan covers the Cuyo Islands in the Sulu Sea. The disputed Spratly Islands,
located a few hundred kilometres to the west, are considered part of
Palawan by the Philippines, and is locally called the Kalayaan Group of
Islands.
Palawan's almost 2,000 kilometres (1,200 mi) of irregular coastline
are dotted with roughly 1,780 islands and islets, rocky coves, and
sugar-white sandy beaches. It also harbors a vast stretch of virgin
forests that carpet its chain of mountain ranges. The mountain heights
average 3,500 feet (1,100 m) in altitude, with the highest peak rising
to 6,843 feet (2,086 m) at Mount Mantalingahan.
The vast mountain areas are the source of valuable timber. The terrain
is a mix of coastal plain, craggy foothills, valley deltas, and heavy
forest interspersed with riverine arteries that serve as irrigation.
History
The history of Palawan may be traced back 22,000 years ago, as confirmed by the discovery of bone fragments of the Tabon Man
in the municipality of Quezon. Although the origin of the cave dwellers
is not yet established, anthropologists believe they came from Borneo.
Known as the Cradle of Philippine Civilization, the Tabon Caves
consist of a series of chambers where scholars and anthropologists
discovered the remains of the Tabon Man along with his tools and a
number of artifacts.
Ancient times
Waves of migrants arrived in the Philippines by way of land bridges
between Borneo and Palawan. From 220 up to 263 AD, during the period of
the Three Kingdoms, "Little, dark people" living in Anwei province in
South China were driven South by Han People. Some settled in Thailand,
others went farther south to Indonesia, Sumatra, Borneo. They were known
as Aetas and Negritos from whom Palawan's Batak tribe descended.Other tribes known to inhabit the islands such as the Palawano and Tagbanwa,
are also descendants of the early settlers, who came via ice-age land
bridges. They had a form of indigenous political structure developed in
the island, wherein the natives had their non-formal form of government,
an alphabet, and a system of trading with sea-borne merchants.
In AD 982, ancient Chinese traders regularly visit the islands.A Chinese author referred to these islands as Kla-ma-yan (Calamian), Palau-ye (Palawan), and Paki-nung
(Busuanga). Pottery, china and other artifacts recovered from caves and
waters of Palawan attest to trade relations that existed between
Chinese and Malay merchants.
Pre-colonial era
In the 12th century, Malay
settlers, who came on boats, began to populate the island. Most of the
settlements were ruled by Malay chieftains. These people grew rice,
ginger, coconuts, sweet potatoes, sugarcane and bananas. They also
raised pigs, goats and chickens. Most of their economic activities were
fishing, farming, and hunting by the use of bamboo traps and blowguns.
The local people had a dialect consisting of 18 syllables. They were followed by the Indonesians of the Majapahit Empire in the 13th century, and they brought with them Buddhism and Hinduism.
Because of Palawan's proximity to Borneo, southern portions of the island was under the control of the Sultanate of Brunei for more than two centuries, and Islam was introduced. During the same period, trade relations flourished, and intermarriages among the natives and the Chinese, Japanese, Arab, Hindu. The inter-mixing of blood resulted to a distinct breed of Palaweños, both in physical stature and features.
Spanish period
Taytay, the capital of Province of Calamianes, in 1818; (Spanish Palawan)
After Ferdinand Magellan's death, remnants of his fleet landed in Palawan where the bounty of the land saved them from starvation. Antonio Pigafetta, Magellan's chronicler named the place "Land of Promise."
The northern Calamianes Islands
were the first to come under Spanish authority, and were later declared
a province separate from the Palawan mainland. In the early 17th
century, Spanish friars sent out missions in Cuyo, Agutaya, Taytay and Cagayancillo
but they met resistance from Moro communities. Before 18th century,
Spain began to build churches enclosed by garrisons for protection
against Moro raids in the town of Cuyo, Taytay, Linapacan and Balabac. In 1749, the Sultanate of Brunei ceded southern Palawan to Spain.
In 1818, the entire island of Palawan, or Paragua as it was called, was organized as a single province named Calamianes, with its capital in Taytay. By 1858, the province was divided into two provinces, namely, Castilla, covering the northern section with Taytay as capital and Asturias in the southern mainland with Puerto Princesa as capital. It was later divided into three districts, Calamianes, Paragua and Balabac,
with Principe Alfonso town as its capital. and During the Spanish
colonization of the Philippines, Cuyo became the second capital of
Palawan from 1873 to 1903.
American rule
In 1902, after the Philippine-American War, the Americans established civil rule in northern Palawan, calling it the province of Paragua.
In 1903, pursuant to Philippine Commission Act No. 1363, the province
was reorganized to include the southern portions and renamed Palawan, and Puerto Princesa declared as its capital.
Many reforms and projects were later introduced in the province.
Construction of school buildings, promotion of agriculture, and bringing
people closer to the government were among the priority plans during
this era.
Japanese invasion
The Palawan Massacre
U. S. Army personnel toiled to identify the charred remains of Americans captured at Bataan and burned alive on Palawan. 20 March 1945
During World War II, in order to prevent the rescue of prisoners of war by the advancing allies, on 14 December 1944, units of the Japanese Fourteenth Area Army (under the command of General Tomoyuki Yamashita) herded the remaining 150 prisoners of war at Puerto Princesa
into three covered trenches which were then set on fire using barrels
of gasoline. Prisoners who tried to escape the flames were shot down.Others attempted to escape by climbing over a cliff that ran along one
side of the trenches, but were later hunted down and killed. Only 11 men
escaped the slaughter and between 133 and 141 were killed.
The massacre is the basis for the recently published book Last Man Out: Glenn McDole, USMC, Survivor of the Palawan Massacre in World War II by Bob Wilbanks, and the opening scenes of the 2005 Miramax film, The Great Raid. A memorial has been erected on the site and McDole, in his eighties, was able to attend the dedication.
For further details, see the Axis History Forum: Massacre at Palawan.
Liberation
During the initial phase of the Battle of Leyte Gulf, just off the coast of Palawan, two United States Navy submarines, USS Dace (SS-247) and USS Darter (SS-227) attacked a Japanese cruiser task force led by Admiral Takeo Kurita, sinking his flagship (in which he survived) Atago, and her sister ship Maya. Darter later ran aground that afternoon and was scuttled by USS Nautilus (SS-168).
The island was liberated from the Japanese Imperial Forces by a task
force consisting of Filipino and American military personnel between
February 28 and April 22, 1945.
Political divisions
It has a total land area of 14,896 square kilometer (km2), which is distributed to its mainland municipalities, comprising 12,239 km², and the island municipalities,
which altogether measure 2,657 km². On the average, each municipality
has an area of 620 km². On the other hand, the island municipality of Cuyo (4,003 km²) ranks largest in terms of municipal waters. On the latter, the mainland municipality of Sofronio Española has the smallest marine area with only 485 km².
The largest municipalities are situated in the central and northern mainland, and they are: Puerto Princesa (2,106 km²), Taytay (1,390 km²), and Roxas (1,220 km²). On the contrary, the smallest local government units are the island municipalities of Cagayancillo (15.40 km²), Magsaysay (27.70 km²) and Cuyo (57.30 km²). All 24 local government units have 431 barangays as of June 2002.
Highly-urbanized city
Municipalities
- Mainland municipalities
- Island municipalities
Region
In 2001, the residents of Palawan voted in a plebiscite to reject inclusion into an expanded Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao.
On 17 May 2002, Executive order No. 103 divided Region IV into Region IV-A (CALABARZON) and Region IV-B (MIMAROPA), placing the province of Palawan into MIMAROPA.
On 23 May 2005, Executive Order No. 429 directed that Palawan be transferred from Region IV-B to Region VI.However, Palaweños criticized the move, citing a lack of consultation,
with most residents in Puerto Princesa City and all municipalities but
one preferring to stay with Region IV-B. Consequently, Administrative Order No. 129
was issued on 19 August 2005 that the implementation of EO 429 be held
in abeyance pending approval by the President of its implementation
Plan. The Philippine Commission on Elections reported the 2010 Philippine general election results for Palawan as a part of the Region IV-B results.As of 30 June 2011, the abeyance was still in effect and Palawan remained a part of MIMAROPA.
Demographics
People and culture
Based on the 2010 census, the population of the province excluding
the independent Puerto Princesa City is 771,667 persons, or 994,340
including Puerto Princesa. Population trend:
Population in 2010: 771,667
Population in 2007: 682,152
Population in 2000: 593,500
Population in 1995: 510,909
Population in 1990: 436,140
The province is a melting pot of 87 different cultural groups and
races who live together in peace and harmony. Basically, its culture
bears a strong influence from China, India and the Middle East. Influx of migrants from other parts of the Philippines, particularly from Muslim Mindanao,
accounts for the high population growth rate of 3.98% annually. The
native-born Palaweños still predominate the populace. Eighteen percent
is composed of cultural minority groups such as the Tagbanwa, Palawano, Batak, and Molbog.
Language
There are 52 languages and dialects in the province, with Tagalog being spoken by more than 50 percent of the people. Other languages are Cuyonon (26.27 percent), Palawano (4.0 percent), and Hiligaynon (9.6 percent).
Religion
Roman Catholicism
Protestantism and Other Groups
Non-Christian religions
Because of its proximity to Mindanao and even Malaysia, pockets of indigenous Muslims
can be found in the southern municipalities with Muslims making up the
majority of the population in some municipalities in the far south like Balabac and Bataraza. There are also Buddhists - mainly Vietnamese refugees who settled in Palawan, as well as some ethnic Chinese Buddhists. One notable Vietnamese Buddhist Temple in Palawan is Vihara Van Phat.
Most of the ethnic minorities such as Batak and Tagbanwa are animists, but many have become Christians (usually Protestant) or have joined other sects.
Education
Literacy rate in Palawan is increasing by 2% annually because of
expanding access to education. Among these programs are the
establishment of schools in remote barangays, non-formal education,
multi-grade mobile teaching and the drop-out intervention program.
Public schools in the province consist of 623 elementary schools, 126
secondary schools and two universities. Private schools are as follows:
26 – elementary; 19 – secondary; 4 private colleges and 10 vocational
schools. Some of the private institutions are the Holy Trinity University run by the Dominican Sisters of Saint Catherine of Siena,
Fullbright College, Palawan Polytechnical College Inc., in Roxas, San
Vicente and Puerto Princesa City, Systems Technology Institute (STI),
AMA Computer Learning Center (ACLC) in Puerto Princesa City, San
Francisco Javier College run by the Augustinian Recollect Sisters in Narra, Loyola College in Culion run by the Jesuits,
St. Joseph Academy in Cuyo, St. Augustine Academy in Coron, Coron
Technical School, Sacred Heart of Jesus High School in Brooke's
Point;Northern Palawan Christian Institute ( Owned and manage by The
Iglesia Filipina Independiente; Palawan Diocese) and the unique
educational institution called the St. Ezekiel Moreno Dormitory located in barangay Macarascas, Puerto Princesa City founded by Bishop Broderick Pabillo, the present auxiliary bishop of the Archdiocese of Manila.
Among the public institutions are the Palawan State University, Western Philippines University
with campuses in Aborlan and Puerto Princesa City, Coron College of
Fisheries, Puerto Princesa School of Arts and Trade and the Palawan
College of Arts and Trade in Cuyo, Palawan.
Environment
A mangrove forest in Palawan.
Unlike most of the Philippines, Palawan is biogeographically part of Sundaland, with a fauna and flora related to that found in Borneo.
Among the many endemic species are the Palawan Peacock-pheasant, Philippine Mouse-deer, Philippine Pangolin and Palawan Bearded Pig.
In the forests and grasslands, the air resonates with the songs of more
than 200 kinds of birds. Over 600 species of butterflies flutter around
the mountains and fields of Palawan, attracted to some 1500 hosts
plants found here. Endangered sea turtles nest on white sand beaches. Dugong numbers have fallen seriously, although Palawan still has a larger population than any other part of the country and organizations such as Community Centred Conservation (C3) are working to end the unsustainable use of marine resources in Palawan and in Philippines.
Total forest cover is about 56 percent of the total land area of the province while mangrove forest accounts for 3.35 percent based on the 1998 Landsat imagery. Grasslands
dwindled from 19 percent in 1992 to 12.40 percent in 1998. This is an
indication of improving soil condition as deteriorating soil is normally
invaded by grass species. Brushlands increased to 25 percent of the
total land area. Sprawled beneath the seas are nearly 11,000 square
kilometers of coral reefs, representing more than 35% of the country's coral reefs.
Palawan, the only Philippine island cited, is rated by National Geographic Traveler magazine as the best island destination in East and Southeast Asia
region in 2007, and the 13th best island in the world having
"incredibly beautiful natural seascapes and landscapes. One of the most
biodiverse (terrestrial and marine) islands in the Philippines... The
island has had a Biosphere Reserve status since early 1990s, showing
local interest for conservation and sustainable development".
The province was also categorized as "doing well" in the 4th Destination Scorecard survey conducted by the National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destinations, and Conde Nast Traveler magazine voted its beaches, coves and islets as the tourist destination with the best beaches in Asia. Renowned underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau has described the province as having one of the most beautiful seascapes in the world. and Caril Ridley, founder of Palawan Environmental and Marine Studies Center (PEMS)
says the Islands of northern Palawan are destined to become a future
destination for Asia's growing economic and environmental conferencing.
In 2012, the purple crab was discovered here along with four other species.
Climate
The province has two types of climate. The first, which occurs in the
northern and southern extremities and the entire western coast, has two
distinct seasons – six months dry and six months wet. The other, which
prevails in the eastern coast, has a short dry season of one to three
months and no pronounced rainy period during the rest of the year. The
southern part of the province is virtually free from tropical
depressions but northern Palawan experiences torrential rains during the
months of July and August. Summer months serve as peak season for
Palawan. Sea voyage is most favorable from March to early June when the
seas are calm. The average maximum temperature is 31 degrees C with
little variation all year.
Notable sites
Boayan Island
Calauit Game Preserve and Wildlife Sanctuary
A game reserve and wildlife sanctuary of exotic African animals and
endangered endemic animals of Palawan. The reserve was established on
August 31, 1976 by virtue of the Presidential Decree No.1578,
this was initiated in response to the appeal of the International Union
for the Conservation of Nature to help save African wildlife when former
President Ferdinand Marcos attended the 3rd World Conference in Kenya. By virtue of the Republic Act 7611 (SEP), administrative jurisdiction of DENR
was given to the local government of Palawan, effective December 31,
1993. Management of the area is the responsibility of the Office of the
Palawan Council of Sustainable Development (PCSD). It is located in
Calauit Island in Busuanga.
Coron Reefs, Coron Bay, Busuanga
Seven lakes surrounded by craggy limestone cliffs attract hundreds of nature lovers to Coron Reefs in Northern Palawan, near the town of Coron. Busuanga Island, whose main town is Coron, is the jump-off point for numerous dive operators. The principal dive sites are 12 World War II
Japanese shipwrecks sunk on September 24, 1944 by US Navy action. They
range in depth from the surface to 40 meters. This large variety offers
exciting wreck exploration for enthusiasts, from novice divers and
snorkelers and recreational divers to experienced TEC divers. The
aquatic views from the sunken Japanese warships off Coron Island are listed in Forbes Traveler Magazine's top 10 best scuba sites in the world.
Dive operators offer PADI dive courses ranging from Discover Scuba to
Assistant Instructor, Technical and Enriched Air Diving, as well as
other specialty courses. Dive operators offer day diving, snorkeling
trips, and overnight dive safaris. Live-aboard and charter boats also
offer diving in the area.
El Nido Marine Reserve Park
One of the many beaches of El Nido, a marine reserve park and municipality at the northernmost tip of Palawan Island.
The January 2008 issue of international magazine Travel + Leisure, published by the American Express Co. (which partnered with Conservation International) listed El Nido's
sister hotel resorts El Nido Lagen Island and El Nido Miniloc Island in
Miniloc and Lagen Islands as "conservation-minded places on a mission
to protect the local environment." Travel + Leisures 20 Favorite Green Hotels scored El Nido Resort's protection of Palawan's giant clam gardens and the re-introduction of endangered Philippine cockatoos: "8.
El Nido Resorts, Philippines: Guest cottages on stilts are set above
the crystalline ocean. The resorts are active in both reef and island
conservation."
Malampaya Sound Land and Seascape Protected Area
Located in the Municipality of Taytay, this important ecological and economic zone is a watershed and fishing ground, and the habitat of Bottle-nosed and Irrawaddy dolphins.
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
This park features a large limestone karst landscape with an
underground river. One of the river's distinguishing features is that it
emerges directly into the sea, and its lower portion is subject to
tidal influences. The area also represents a significant habitat for
biodiversity conservation. The site contains a full 'mountain-to-sea'
ecosystem and has some of the most important forests in Asia.
The Tubbataha Reef Marine Park covers 332 km², including the North
and South Reefs. It is a unique example of an atoll reef with a very
high density of marine species; the North Islet serving as a nesting
site for birds and marine turtles. The site is an excellent example of a
pristine coral reef with a spectacular 100 m perpendicular wall,
extensive lagoons and two coral islands.
Ursula Island
This game refuge and bird sanctuary is situated near the Municipality of Brooke's Point in southern Palawan. The islet is a migratory and wintering ground for shorebirds and seabirds.
Geology
Rock formations at a beach on the way to the underground river
The crust of northeast Palawan was derived from the Eurasian Plate
of mainland China. It is the exposed portion of a microcontinent that
drifted southward with the opening of the South China Sea. This
microcontinent also forms the shallow water north of Palawan in the Reed
Bank-Dangerous Grounds area of the southern South China Sea. Some of
the oldest rocks of the Philippines are found in northeast Palawan
(Permian-Carboniferous age). Southwest Palawan exposes primarily
ophiolitic material (rocks derived from uplifted oceanic crust and
mantle). This oceanic material appears to have been thrust upon the continental crust. The transition from "oceanic" ophiolite
in the southwest to "continental"-type rocks in the northeast occurs in
the area of central Palawan around Ulugan Bay. In the Dalrymple Point
area, on the east side of Ulugan Bay, are several exposures showing that
the Palawan ophiolite has been thrust on to the continent-derived
clastic rocks ("Sabang thrust").
Specific rock types in the "continental" northeast, include clastic
rocks (sandstones and mudstones). Good exposures of these rocks types
can be found on the main road running along the southern coast east of
Puerto Princesa all the way up to Malampaya Sound. These rocks probably
formed the continental shelf, rise, slope or even deeper marine deposits
on the southeast margin of China prior to the opening of the South
China Sea. The Palawan Trench is a deep ocean element of the South China
Sea.
Further north, around the Malampaya Sound area and up to the El Nido
area, one finds deep marine chert and limestone. Based on the structure
of these sedimentary units, it is thought that they formed part of an
accretionary prism on the southeast margin of China at a time when that
part of China was an Andean-type plate margin (an ocean-continent
subduction zone). The chert and limestone were scraped off of an oceanic
plate and accreted to the margin of China (again, prior to the opening
of the South China Sea). Some of the limestones are also thought to be
of olistostromal origin (i.e., they formed in shallow water but were
transported to deeper water by submarine slides).
Coron Island off the northern tip of Palawan is surrounded by islands with large rock formations
It is interesting to note that the spectacular karst limestones in
the St. Paul area and El Nido area that Palawan is somewhat famous for,
are of different origin and age. The limestones in the St. Paul National
Park east of Ulugan Bay (where the famous Undeground River is located)
are relatively young. Based on their fossil content they are assigned an
Oligocene-Miocene age (~30 to 15 million years old). These younger
limestones formed largely as reef structures on the bit of continental
crust that drifted south from China during the opening of the South
China Sea. These are the same limestones that host most of the oil and
gas that is being extracted offshore in the South China Sea. In
contrast, the limestones in the El Nido area are largely Permian in age
(~300-250 million years old). They are related to the karst limestones
of Vietnam and China.
Intruding these rocks in central Palawan (Cleopatra's Needle area)
and northern Palawan (Mount Capoas or Kapoas area) are young granite
bodies (true granite to granodiorite) of Miocene age (13-15 million
years old based on zircon and monazite U-Pb dating). In the Taytay area
of northern Palawan, a young basaltic cinder cone is another
manifestation of young magmatic activity. The granitic magmatism and
basaltic magmatism are both expressions of what has been identified as a
widespread post-South China Sea spreading magmatism that has affected
many areas around the South China Sea. Hydrothermal activity associated
with mercury mineralization near Puerto Princesa is yet another sign of
recent magmatic-hydrothermal activity. Surprisingly though, Palawan is
relatively "quiet" in terms of seismic activity. Very few moderate-sized
earthquakes are recorded in the area in contrast to the rest of the
Philippines east of Palawan which are very seismically active.
Security
Spearheading the maintenance of the peace and order situation are the Armed Forces of the Philippines–Western Command in Canigaran and the Philippine National Police-Palawan
Command with headquarters in Tiniguiban, Puerto Princesa. Military
units in the province under the Western Command are the Philippine Air Force 4th Naval District IV, Delta Company and 10th Marine Battalion Landing Team located in Tiniguiban, Puerto Princesa.
Economy
Palawan's economy is basically agricultural. The three major crops are palay, corn and coconut. Mineral resources include nickel, copper, manganese, and chromite.
Logging is also a major industry. Palawan has one of the richest
fishing grounds in the country. About 45% of Manila's supply of fish
comes from here. Having natural gas reserves of approximately 30,000
trillion cubic feet, the province is the only oil-producing province in the country. In addition, tourism is also a thriving sector.
Pearl diving used to be a significant economic activity for Palawan until the advent of plastics.[citation needed] The world's largest pearl, the 240mm diameter Pearl of Lao Tzu, was found off Palawan in 1934.
The economic and agricultural business growth of province is at 20% per annum.Coconut, sugar, rice, lumber, and livestock are produced here.
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